Reggaeton

Well I thought I would just write to explain about reggaeton. It is a kind of music wildly popular all over Latin America. It is basically a sped up regae beat, a bit like dance hall. Every song pretty much has the same beat with rapping in spanish over the top. Sometimes it is catchy but mostly (because I have been listening to the same songs) it can get a bit much.

It began in Puerto Rico but now there are many artists from other countries. Like rap music the film clips have many a girl in skimpy clothes, this being Latin America I think they have even less clothes.

The dancing style is described as Perreo, which is basically grinding, where a couple will basically grind against each other on the dance floor doggy style. Due to this I decline dances to Reggaeton!

One of the biggest artists at the moment is Daddy Yankee, who had a huge hit with the song ¨Gasolina¨ and the new hit ¨Romper¨.

Potosi

Well, I am now in the mining town on Potosi, also located in arid regions of Bolivia. It is also the worlds highest city located at a whopping 4070m above sea level.

After a very bumpy bus ride I arrived. I am staying at the Koala Den Hostel (although not aussie run but heaps of them there). Apparently it is called Koala den after miners who chew coa leaves all day much like Koala bears chew gum leaves.



Today I took a tour of the co-operative mines. I guess the only word to describe it was hellish. Firstly we got changed into our gear (jumpsuit, helmet and lights etc) then went to the miners market. We bought soft drink, coca leaves and dynamite as gifts for the miners. Yes I was carring around dynamite (not just a stick also the fuse, detonator and an accelerator as well.




We then arrived at the mines, our guides then carried all the things that we bought. We descended a short way in to the musuem located in the mine which was quite interesting. Although tours go through the mines they are functioning mines with over 200 workers in our mine. Potosi itself has 12 000 miners. There are miners as young as 14 years old, and miners that have been working there for over 40 years. When miners start young they do not have a long life expectancy as conditions are so poor. On average life expectancy for those that start young are around 43 years. Dying of silicosis and realted diseases.

Most of the employment in the mines is due to no other jobs being available and keeping up a family tradition of mining. Our guide Efra was excellent he himself is an ex-miner. I found myself doing things that when I think about it now were very scarey. Crawling down fume filled tunnels on my knees or at times my stomach. A few people in our group had to leave because they could not handle it. I managed to go down to the 4th level. They guys working there work so hard as they work for themselves and sell the silver/iron/zinc to co-operatives.

















It is so hot and stuffy that the miners were always asking our guide for the drinks we brang and coca leaves to keep them going.

Although I would not describe it as a nice experience it was something I am defiantely glad I did. It was quite an eye opener to see the conditions of a mine in a 3rd world country are like. It makes you appreciate how lucky you are. Dominic next time I think about complaining at work I will think of my time in the mines and maybe shut my mouth!

The next day I bought a local weaving from a shop and visited the mint museum which was really interesting as at one stage due to the rich silver weins in the mines, Potosi was one of the richest countries in South America and they produced a lot of silver coins for spain.

I am still trying to find a computer who a, has a USB port and b, is also fast enough to upload pictures...Sorry

Salar de Uyuni

Well I have spent the last 4 days in a four wheel drive (dave you would be happy). I took a bus from La Paz to the town of Uyuni, then joined my tour to the Salar de Uyuni.

The Salar de Uyuni is the world´s largest salt flat, it is 12 000 Kms squared. It was a salt lake that dried up and has left huge salt planes. It is completely amazing and really surreal to drive around and see only white as far as the eye can see. There is one island in the middle of the salt flats which is made up of dried coral and has many a cacti. It is so hot and dry during the day your skin and lips get all cracked. At night it gets to freezing temperatures or sometimes 20 below!

I again was blessed with a great tour group there were two vans but the people on mine were great. There were three people from France, Sandrine, Celene and Anthony (who live in Ireland so speak with an Irish accent which is cute) and a lovely couple Simon and Rachel from the UK. We had many laughs and many a very competitive game of uno. We also had the worlds most calm and patient driver Carlos!

Here is a quick run down of our tour.

Day 1: Drove through the salt planes amazing scenery, and great surreal photos.
One puncture, eggs for dinner.

Day 2: Drove through the desert which is surrounded by huge volcanos and visited many lagoons some of which had red water Laguna Colorada, which also had many flamingos.
Two punctures and the exhaust fell of our car. Eggs for dinner.

Day 3: Up at 5am visited some geothermal geysers, then had a bath in some hot springs and more driving through the desert to Laguna Verde this cool aquamarine coloured lake which had great reflections of the nearby volcanos.

That night after again more eggs for dinner (not many veggie options on the tour) some kids from the local school who were studying music came and gave an impromptue performance for us. They all had on costumes and played pan pipes, drums, guitar and various percussion instruments. They all sang really loud for there favourite songs and danced up a storm. It was so adorable and something really special I will remember.

Day 4: Lots of driving back to Uyuni, stopping at a canyon and visiting volcanic rock formations.
20 mins from Uyuni another puncture (god bless carlos)

I am now in Uyuni for the night and by group and I caught up for Pizza at this restuarant called minute man which is owned by a guy form Boston (his wife if Bolivian) I would have to say it has been the best pizza I have eaten since I left New York!!! It was amazing and for $5 including a beer so cheap!

and I head to Potosi tomorrow. I have some fantastic photos I would love to put up but the computers here have no USB so will do it ASAP

Copacabana - The Hottest Place North of Havana??

Well, unlike the song. Copacabana is not North of Havana. It is actually South in Bolivia and on Lake Titicaca. It is quite hot during the day but at night as soon as the sun goes down it is freezing cold.

Situated right on the lake is is a very pretty town, again at an elevation of 3800m (I hope I come back with some Olympic high altitude training fitness). It is a very laid back town and is full of cafes. It seems to be mostly populated by traditional bolivianos and hippies that have left Peru so they can sell handmade jellery on the streets (it is illegal to do that in Peru). As suspected I have done some shopping :)

I stayed at this amazing hostel with private room, great food and awsome showers (it is something you come to appreciate it South America).

I spent one day exploring the Isla del la Sol (island of the sun). According to Incan mythology it is where the sun was born. In the evening back in Copacabana I hiked up to a sacred site where you get a great view of the Sunset.

Today I am off to La Paz which should be a fasinating city.

Leaving Peru

Well, I have now left Peru. Crossing boarders via land does not seem dramatic as it does by plane. It takes a while to realize you are in a different country.

I really loved my time in Peru. It is such an amazing country, diverse terrain from deserts to mountains and jungle. I had 5 weeks there and feel like I got to see a good part of the country (given many tourists only go to Cusco/Machu Picchu) however it is one of those places you could explore for a long time.

Not only does Peru have some great scenery, it has a great history and interesting culture. Even though the Incan empire lasted for 100 years (it only took 120 Spanish to conquer them, they had guns though) it left a huge impression on the country. There are also many interesting pre-Incan sites and cultures to observe.

The thing I like most about Peru is its people. They are extremely friendly and very proud of their culture. They are excited to show you their country and teach you its history. Something as a tourist I really appreciated.

I really loved the areas of Huaraz and Arequipa. Even though there was tourism there it blended in with the area well and was not so obvious. Also these places had spectacular scenery.

Some of the things I like about Peru are the Eucalyptus tress, yep they are around. They were imported it is great seeing and smelling them. Reminds me of home. Also I love Inca Kola, it is neon yellow and tastes like bubblegum it is pretty funny. Another favourite is the Coca leaf. No I have not turned into some druggie. But it makes great tea which helps altitude sickness, upset stomaches and sore throats. So it for Peru it pretty much cures all that ails you. Also you can get any medication from a pharmacy with out a perscription which is great too.

Machu Picchu

Well, on our last day we woke up at 3:30am to get ready and begin walking in the dark and rain to Machu Picchu. It at first seemed that the whole town had the same idea. It then dawned on us that that it was good Friday and that the towns people were actually walking through town with candles for Holy Easter Week.

We walked for an hour up and Incan trail of stairs which was a bit hard going. We got to the ruins at around 6am, however we were not able to see the sun come up because there was so many clouds.

We had a two hour tour of the ruins which was a little dissapointing as it was difficult to take photos and see due to the cloud cover and the fact our guide spoke so fast and it seems a little rehearsed. After the tour we exited the site to go to the bathroom and get some food. Just out side the ruins there are various shops and a $700 US dollar a night hotel!

We then went back in and the sun had finally come out, the clouds gone and it looked amazing. We hiked around the ruins and took some photos. There are so many people there even more than I expected it feels a little ridiculous at times, you seem to be following people everywhere. There are lots of senior citz tours as well.

A group of us hiked up WaynaPicchu, which is the mountain seen in all classic Machu Picchu photos (it is the mountain behind me in the photo where I am standing, the other photos is the view from the top). It is extremely steep and a difficult climb at points you have to crawl up stairs. But at the top the views were spectacular it felt as if you are on top of the world. It was simply amazing. As it was a difficult climb not many people do it and you are able to escape the hords of people and I finally had that special feeling of fulfilling a dream of being at Machu Picchu.

It felt bad to leave but we had to catch the train back to Cusco which was long and tiring. Especially when I had to find a new hostel when I got back that night, but one of the guys and I decied to splash out and get nice rooms for a night to have a well deserved rest.

Run through the Jungle

I have decided to post my Machu Picchu experience in two halves. The way there and actually being there.

As I have said I was unable to do the classic Inca Trail due to government restrictions on the number of people who can go and has pushed the waiting time to May.

A few people I met at the hostel and some people I met at a travel agency and I booked a tour which took an alternate route.

The first day our group met, we had Yanish and Livia (an Israli/American couple) and Aaron and Megan from Phillidelphia both lovely couples and a lot of fun. Also Ewan a Canadian guy from up North. We along with our guides caught a local bus, which (mum do not read this) was one of my scariest bus rides yet. Packed to the brim with people and bikes on top, on a mountain road with shear edges and roadworks. I felt at every minute as if we would plumit off the side, especially since we had a near collision with a truck which nearly resutled in our driver getting beaten up with a rock.

We made it in-tact to our destination. Where we unloaded our bikes and had a 5 hour downhill ride which was a lot of fun. It felt great to be back on a bike, even though after 5 hours on rough roads with no suspension and a mens seat meant my bottom bits and arms were in a lot of pain. It had the special peruvian touch of bits of peoples bikes including pedals and cranks falling off at different stages.

However we did ride through some of the most remote Peruvian towns I have seen, where kids wave and chase your bike and chat to you while you ride. Which is a great experience!

The next two days involved hiking through the jungle. The first day being a killer with 18Kms uphill, and in the steaming jungle we were all sweating like pigs and covered in mossie bites. That night we stayed in some kind of shed with beds, in this dead arse town where the town drunk walked in at 6am. For what we do not know none of us could make sense of him. The next day we hiked for 15Kms most of which was flat but we had a few river crossings in a basket and pully system which was fun. We hiked to Aguas Calientes which is the town close to Machu Picchu, where we made the most of 4 for 1 happy hours.

Although I make it sound crazy and scary we had a great group and we always made the most fun of situations. Food was pretty good too.

Getting pinned against a wall by Jesus

Hey a quick post. Today is a very holy day in South America. It is Easter week and yesterday was Palm Sunday. Here they celebrate on the Monday after. This afternoon a black jesus was paraded around town. The precession started in the Plaza de Armas and moved around town, I watched a bit then went to meet a friend for coffee. On my way back to my hostel I was walking down a street when the precession turned the corner. Suddenly I was surrounded by people, a marching band and a choir of children. The crowd was so huge it was like a mosh pit at a rock concert. I was pushed against a wall and stayed there for about 20 minutes until the procession passed.

It was quite amazing! People were throwing flowers at Jesus and the band was playing. Aparently the black Jesus. Do not forget to pronounce "j" as "h". Protects the people of Cusco from earthquakes.

Cusco

Well, I have been in Cusco now for 4 days. It is crazy here it is so touristy. There is a combination of backpackers and the older travel crowd who are all here to see Machu Picchu and other incan ruins.

When you walk down the street people are offering you tours, alpaca jumpers, finger puppets, jewellery all sorts of stuff.

Unfortuately I will not be able to do the Inca Trail, as the government permits are all taken up and the next available are on the 25th of April and I can not wait that long. Otherwise I will not see any of Bolivia. I can do an alternative trek that still ends up at Machu Picchu. I am just waiting for a group to form to go which can be a bit frustrating. I am not too upset at not being able to do the Inca trail as recently there have been some mud slides so the sun gate is not open, which is one of the main highlights watching the sun rise over the ruins.

My hostel here is crazy. 130 beds and it is full of a lot of wankers and party people. The other night there were some people having sex in my dorm. I have not encountered people like this in the whole of my travels. I am looking forward to getting out of here and going trekking. That said I have met some really nice people. I met this English guy Paul and we have hung out and he will be in Bolivia the same time as me so it is nice to have a travel buddy.

So far I have visited the sights of Cusco the city. Paul and I took a loca bus to some Inca ruins at Tambo Machy, then walked back 7Kms to Cusco passing 3 other Inca ruins on the way,incuding the very impressive Sacsaywuman, or as you say it in English sexy woman. They are really quite facinating. The stonework is amazing and there aremany sacred sites where gods were worshiped.

Yesterday I went on a tour to the Sacred Vally of the Incas, again to see some more spectacular Incan ruins of Ollaytambo and Pisac. It was very touristy with many buses and people everywhere and lots of people selling there wears. It is tempting to go shopping there is lots of great stuff here. But I can not carry it all. Also there is the same things in Bolivia at half the price so I am holding out.

Well off to go and try and get my trek organised.

Arequipa

Well, I have spent my last 4 days in the area of Arequipa, again in Southern Peru. Had a horrible, horrible overnight bus ride which involved being touched up by some old fat lady. I am not sure if it was an accident or she was looking for money.

Arequipa is a beautiful city full of old monestries, a great plaza and beautiful colonial buildings. It is located near several volcanos which provides a spectacular backdrop. I spend my first day wondering around. Stumbling upon many political rallies. The election here is on the 9th of April there are 20 presidential candidates.

The next two days I took a tour to the nearby Canyon de Colca which is the worlds deepest canyon. I did not feel like getting up at 2am to trek it so took the easy option of a bus tour. On the way we saw many Llamas and Alpacas. Also many of the locals sell handmade knits and crafts at the roadside. Lots of kids dress up in traditional costume and pose with baby llamas. Very touristy but they are so adorable. We did a small hike visited some burial grounds, viewed the canyon and local villages. On the second day we visited Cruz de Condor and we got to see 4 condors they are huge birds. Also visited I think one of the worlds highest toilets 4900m.

There were some great people on the tour, and spent my last day hanging out with this cool Scottish guy NICK. After a marathon chess game which ended in a draw (I think that is pretty good for me) we visited a Museum which contains preserved bodies of sacrificial children. Sounds a litttle creepy I know but the Incas believed that the mountains were gods and after volcanic erruptions they sacrificed pure, noble children to appease the gods. The children were burried in graves along with gifts of pottery, gold statues and idols of gods.

A few years ago explorers disscovered almost perfect remains of these sacrificies, as for hundreds of years they had been burried in ice. You can see all the burried artifacts as well as one of the preserved bodies in the museum it was really facinating.

Photos soon. Off to Cusco tonight, may have difficulty getting an Inca trek as many places are booked out so please cross your fingers and toes for me. Lots of love Alicia

Nazca

Well, I spent one night back in Lima, saw a Dr and got some more anti-biotics so now the stomach is much better.

I took the bus to Nazca in the South of Peru, it is a hot desert town. Not much really happened here until commercial plane flights started. Pilots noticed strange lines in the ground nd no one could quite make out what they were. A German mathematician researched and mapped out the lines to find out that they form animal shapes.

There are lots of them including Monkey, Hummingbird, Whale, Man and Spider. Here in the photo you can see the monkey. It is a little dissapointing as the lines are a little faint but you should see it.

They were created by the ancient Nazca people, who had no written language. However no one knows quite why they were constructed especially given that they are huge 90-130m long you can not see them at ground level they can only really be seen properly from the air.There are many theories such as they were a giant astrological calander, they are alien landing sites, or giant offerings to the gods.

From the photo you can probably tell I got over my fear of small planes and took a plane over the lines. It is quite amazing to see these things from the air they truly are quite phenominial and their mystry makes them more special. The plane ride is pretty rough and they bank left right pretty sharp so you can see the lines from all angles. Of course I was sick but it was worth it!